Prada redefines youthful elegance with psychedelic flair

A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wear creations part of the Sunnei men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wait backstage prior to the Sunnei men's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Fashion designer Massimo Georgette runs on the runway at the end of the MSGM, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Sunnei men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Sunnei men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the MSGM, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wear creations part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of Sunnei men's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wear creations part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the MSGM, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Fashion designer Francesco Ragazzi takes the catwalk at the end of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the MSGM, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Prada men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the BSFXXK, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the MSGM, men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Palm Angels men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation part of the Sunnei men's Spring-Summer 2019 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, June 17, 2018. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MILAN — Youthful designers injected energy into the third day Sunday of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for next spring and summer.

While the topics of generational and creative change at some of the most-established Milan fashion houses were running in the background, young brands carved out their own space to grow by their own rules.

Some highlights from Sunday's shows, including Milan mainstay Prada alongside younger brands Palm Angels, MSGM, Sunnei and Korean newcomers BESFXXK.

___

PRADA BASICS

Miuccia Prada says she was "trying to do elegant in a new young way" with her latest menswear collection.

At Prada, young does not translate to streetwear, even if there were sneakers. The new plastic square logo on nearly every garment, including the folded turtle neck, was strictly an ironic answer to prevailing trends.

Against previous intentions, elegant at Prada translated into sexy — i.e. short shorts for men — and at times playful — big stuffed aviator hats made for summer despite the decidedly wintery earflaps, mostly in Prada's trademark black vinyl.

"I never pronounced sexy in my life. I never wanted Prada to be sexy," but willingly embraced the notion as the rest of the fashion world seemed to resist sexiness in favor of boxy street looks, the designer said.

"You know I am a bit of a contrarian," she said.

The looks amounted to basic mix and match, layer or not: Straight trousers, turtle necks, shirts and jackets, and the short-shorts, which Prada called "a miniskirt" for men. Materials included denim and suede. The colors were mostly neutrals.

There was a slightly psychedelic feel to daisy print shirts and fantastic scenes that conjured the animated film version of the Beatles' "Yellow Submarine."

Underlining the message, Prada stripped the showroom bare, put clear plastic sheets on the wall and sat guests on inflatable clear cubes.

"Sometimes, it is good to go back to simple things," she said.

____

PALM ANGELS: ITALIAN STREET WEAR

Francesco Ragazzi's America-inspired street fashion brand, Palm Angels, had all the codes of the latest trends: neon flashes, thick-soled sneakers, short gym shorts, technical cargo pants.

But the 32-year-old designer underlined the luxury in the brand with details. The gym shorts were suede and had orange trim. Shorts and a baby blue top with puffy sleeves came with draw sting.

The footwear included cowboy boots painted with the Stars and Stripes, the perfect accompaniment to a jumpsuit in a bald eagle-American flag print.

A striped strap worn across the chest, apparently binding the upper arms, was an accessory, not part of the garment, as was made clear when a model sported one bare- chested. The looks were tagged as much as branded, with neon tags hanging from pockets. Tiny goggles with colored lenses added an urban edge.

___

VITAMIN INJECTION AT MSGM

Massimo Giorgetti's MSGM collection for next spring and summer recalls his youthful 1980s summers in his native Adriatic coastal city of Rimini, a time, the designer said, when the beach crowds never abandoned their fashion sense.

And Giorgetti paid homage to classic looks of his adopted home in Milan, where he launched his MSGM brand eight years ago.

Giorgetti said he wanted to emphasize his Italian roots while also injecting a dose of 1980s energy. "It's a show that recharges you,"Giorgetti said backstage.

The 41-year-old designer made the point quite literally, imitating colorful graphic logos from well-known Italian vitamin brands with the MSGM Milano logo on silky button-down shirts. There was a plethora of 1980s neon colors, bright florals and prints —from Manga volley-ball playing characters to Roger Minick photographs of tourists.

Rimini is celebrated in slouchy knitwear with the city's name in rainbow colors, worn with striped denim shorts layered over longer boxers. But also in the tangerine shorts and lime green swimming briefs.

For Milan, there were tie-dye knits over colorful print thigh-baring short, jeans and color-block hoodies, and pin-striped suits with palm tree shadows and the band logo on the back.

____

SUNNEI

Designers Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina showed their Sunnei label against the backdrop of the Milan skyline as seen from the 31st floor of Gio Ponti's famed Pirelli Tower. It was an aspirational location, reflected in the invitation that showed the tower from below in a faux smart-phone snap — the view the designers have from their studio.

But the sophisticated, architectural designs were a natural fit for Gio Ponte's arched ceilings and geometrically tiled floors, and showed the designers have definitely arrived. The collection included for the first time women's looks alongside the menswear, and the designers said they found a natural interplay.

"They speak the same language. For us, men and women change little. Unfortunately, we have to categorize it. But for us it is the same thing," Rizzo said.

The looks were clean and sharp, with a focus on soft comfort. The color palate was soothing, from pale blue, sea green, cream and gray offset by orange and red.

Parachute pants worked for him and for her, paired with knit cropped tops for her or an oversized jersey hoodie for him.

Her transparent anorak with orange draw strings gave a sporty touch to an orange terry cloth dress with an asymmetrical hemline. His anorak features a notched collar and doubles as a suit jacket with wide-legged cropped pants.

He wore a worn leather vest with utility pockets with loose jeans and a floppy brim hat, while she wore it with slim skirt with cargo pockets. He carried a large travel bag, hers was a rectangular purse, as the designers also presented a full range of accessories including wavy platform shoes and simple sneakers, sunglasses and headbands.

"It is the natural extension of the brand that we have always presented," Rizzo said. "Our goal is not to change the mood for style from season to season, but to grow, expand the categories."

___

SOUTH KOREAN NEWCOMERS UNVEIL BESFXXK BRAND

South Korean newcomers to Milan, Jae Hyuk Lim and Bona Kim, unveiled their BESFXXK brand that mixes Japanese textiles with American street-styling from the 1980s and British tailoring.

The unusual name combines the notion of bespoke designs with a more irreverent street looks.

The 33-year-old designers aggressively deconstruct and recompose everyday garments for their combined menswear and womenswear collection, like sweatshirts and trench coats.

So a top for him is composed of a T-shirt and a jean jacket sewn together, while hers is a man's collared shirt on one side and an angelic white woman's shirt on the other. Trench coats feature asymmetrical hems. Or can be transformed into a skirt for her, the arms of it wrapped around the waist as a natural belt.

"It is not just a mix of two different elements, it is a mix of cultures," Lim said.

___

This story has been amended to correct the spelling of Miuccia Prada's name.

Similar News

Ali tribute book to be released by Jeter imprint

Aug 11, 2016

A very great athlete will help pay tribute to "The Greatest": Derek Jeter's publishing imprint is set to release "Muhammad Ali Unfiltered." Publication is scheduled for October

Kohl's 2Q profit tops expectations as it lowers expenses

Aug 11, 2016

Kohl's 2Q profit beat analysts' expectations as the department store operator reduced expenses and managed its inventory well

Maine's blueberries headed for big crop despite dry weather

Aug 11, 2016

Maine's wild blueberry crop is headed for another big year despite dry weather

Broaden